An attempt at a summary or conclusion

I guess all good things must come to an end sooner or later. I've been through so many 'lasts' in the last (haha not deliberate) few weeks, and now we reach what I think is the Last last! My final blog about DUF and India.

I wrote the above 3 lines over an hour ago, and still don't really know where to start. During that time, I've spoken to Celia online, found a video someone else made of DUF on Youtube which made me cry, and been asked to do an interview for the Daily Telegraph relating my Lattitude experience. So you can see that although this may be my last blog and signify the end of a part of my life, I'm not going to be allowed to forget it, even if I wanted to. Which I definitely don't.

Coming back home felt good in that I had achieved what I set out to do, and it was really good to see my family and friends again, which I've been doing ever since I got back! But it's very strange to think nothing particularly monumental has really happened here. It's almost like stepping back in time. Not that I can specifically pinpoint what was so monumental about my trip. But it was. I've changed a lot and it's strange trying to fit in back here. Almost like starting another new life. And then in 10 weeks or so I'll be starting yet another new life up in Birmingham.

So what do I miss about India?

• Top of the list is obviously all the kids and young people at DUF who were my experience and made my experience what it was. Closely followed by all the staff at DUF, and especially Kavita.
• A very close second to the kids is Celia. And I don't think she'll mind losing out to them. I was so incredibly lucky to be placed with her - it was just one of those amazing things. We didn't just get on well because we were stuck together for 4 months; we became good friends.
• Mountains. Stupid as it may seem, I got so used to the mountains surrounding Manali it's almost like they became a part of me. I missed them while I was travelling through polluted cities where I couldn't even see the sky, and now I'm home, I can see the sky but it seems empty!
• People. It's so quiet and empty here in so many ways. There are no groups of children playing in the streets, no noise from religious ceremonies throughout the day and night, no calls from shepherds or cowherds, no greetings (or leerings) from people you walk past. Everyone is more wrapped up in their own world here and it makes for a quiet environment. There are positive and negative sides to both situations I guess, and I'm not sure which I prefer.
• Animals. Seeing dogs, donkeys, cows chickens etc on the roads all the time became an amusing part of life over there and it's strange to see the roads (which are tarmacced and marked)empty of wildlife.
• Food. Whilst I don't want to eat rice at the moment, I can see a time in the not too distant future when I crave the rice, dal and potatoes I lived on for 4 months. And not forgetting chapatti of course. I made some of them the other day.
• Devotion. Mornings are very empty without being able to join in with the singing of joyful songs before breakfast
• School. Teaching is what I've always been destined to do. I was at school here for 6 months of my year off, then I was at Rainbow School which was the best teaching experience of my life so far, and now I'm not there.

I could go on and list all the other elements of DUF that made up my day as separate points. I miss it all. Tea. Even though it was milky and sweet. I miss it. Sitting in Auntie's room chatting about nothing in particular. Laughing with Kavita. Planning lessons. Melting chocolate in a plastic freezer bag. So many weird and incredible memories and habits that are gone now.

I guess I should try to explain how I've changed. Way too difficult. I think really I haven't changed so much as been allowed to show the true me - the person I've been all along. In having so much independence and being somewhere noone knew me, I was able to be completely myself and enjoy doing what I wanted to do. It was kind of like a sneak preview of what I hope I will be able to achieve in my life - a successful teaching career that benefits others, surrounded by friends and family I love and that love me. I don't know how much sense that will make to any of you, and it's a very simplified way of putting it, but it's about the best I can manage.

Talking (or writing) about my experience is so difficult - there is so much, but a lot of it is of the sort that only means anything to me and maybe Celia. Even when I was out there, I couldn't send emails home filled with information, and relied on my good friend Nathan to pose stupid questions for me to answer; from 'what colour are the walls of the room you're in' to 'India: love or hate'! I find myself talking about the stupid things like how ridiculously expensive everything is here (examples are polos, 39pHere/6pIndia and Coke, 90p 500ml Here / 25p 600ml India), or exactly how it is to ride in a rickshaw or on a bus for 15 hours. I can't describe the true experience I had there.

Or maybe I can. In one word. LOVE. That's what those kids are. I saw it again when I watched that youtube video just now (search for "dar ul fazl"). They are just so giving of themselves and so appreciative of what you can give them and what they have. That is why I felt so at peace up there in the mountains - I was surrounded by love 24/7. Considering the personal stories of each of those kids and the history of the home itself, they are incredible. Everyone who visits there falls in love with the place for the views, the air, the food, but mainly for the kids. They are the perfect medicine for any ailment. Being with them has made me determined to succeed in my life, and to do it with happiness and love in my heart. That's what I have learnt, or how I've changed, or the message I want to send out to all of you who have read this blog so diligently. Whatever it is, it's Love.

And now having come to that very emotional (and very corny) conclusion, I am signing off from this blog. It has been a pleasure to write for you all, and I hope you have enjoyed it. There will of course be more of my 3,244 photos popping up on Flickr over the next few weeks, so please check that if you'd like to . Thank you for all the support you've provided during my adventure, it was really appreciated especially in the harder moments.

My GAPper's tale has come to an end, so now I must say:

Goodbye,

Philippa xxx

PS - I have just been doing some 'post-amazing experience' research, and have found this: www.sheeba.co.uk jewellery site. They raise money for DUF! If you're looking for jewellery for gifts or something, please take a look at this site!

And if my tale has inspired you to help out other children in similar situations, please take a look at "Red een Kind" - www.redeenkind.nl - the charity through which most of the kids there are supported.

Thank you

Lovely jubbly

Hi everyone - I'm home!!!

Got back safely last night after an 8 hour flight spent watching movies!
Today I've done some sorting out, grocery shopping (it's all so expensive!!!) and visited FCC.
I'm going to a bbq tonight to see all my friends which will be nice, and then I can focus on getting back into the swing of things. I'll write a proper blog attempting to summarise the experience in a couple of days if I can.

TTFN
Philippa

P.S - the title is in reference to the many rickshaw drivers who spouted that phrase at me the moment they discovered I was from England!!!

Too much Jam

"Too much Jam" - immortal words uttered by one of my rickshaw drivers here in Delhi, in reference to the traffic. It really is rather ridiculous.

I arrived here on Friday afternoon and spent the rest of the day relaxing and playing with the girls (Sakshi 4 and Aanya 2) at George and Rajni's.
Yesterday (saturday) I was out all day, doing a bit of sightseeing and last minute shopping, and then today was spent with some of the friends I made on Bible Camp.

Tomorrow is my last full day in India - argh!

Sorry, short entry but I'm going to bed soon. Really excited to come home.

TTFN x

Birds in Bharatpur

Hello everyone!
Do you like my creative and alliterative title? Hehe I have been trying to live up to the 'great writer' status some people have suggested I have. This blog has really become just a gathering of random thoughts as I sit at the computer though.


So I am indeed in Bharatpur. I was originally planning to come here from Agra by bus this morning, but actually came yesterday afternoon. My reason was 3fold:

1 - Agra was hot dirty and smelly, and constant hassling from just about everyone I met had put me in an 'I hate India' mood
2 - My hotel really wasn't that great once you got over the fact it had a rooftop restaurant with a view of the Taj Mahal. In fact it was downright horrible
3 - My friendly rickshaw driver became a little too over-friendly and seemed to be under the impression he would join me for my day in Bharatpur

So all in all I figured that as I had nowhere else to visit after 3pm, I'd be better to get on a bus and suffer the hot journey then, and have a good night's sleep in my nice quiet peaceful 'jungle lodge' before going to see the birds in the morning. So that's what I did.


The only other guest here last night was Catherine, a medstudent from England who came out here to work in a hospital for a few weeks, and she is also an ex-gapper! We shared dinner so we could have more variety as we were both kind of fed up of being on our own, and spent a good few hours chatting. Then I had a really good night's sleep (my plan to go see the birds at 6am rapidly going out of the window), and a nice breakfast here before walking to the Keoladeo Ghana National Park.


Now you need to know that the main reason I came here for the bird park was because it was recommended to me by 'Richard at work'; a colleague of my Dad's! Although it's the wrong time of year to do any wildlife places here in India, and in fact most of them are closed, he said it was well worthwhile.

And I have to admit he was right. For 25 rupees (30p) I was able to hire a bicycle for as long as I wanted, and go for a pedal through the park. There really weren't that many birds around, and I heard more than I saw, but nevertheless it was a nice semi-relaxing way to spend the morning, and I also saw a turtle, monkeys and some cows (woo).


There isn't a lot else to do in Bharatpur really, and so I've spent my afternoon contentedly chilling with my diary and some wordsearches/crosswords. It's made a nice break, especially as I'm going to the hustle and bustle of Delhi tomorrow. But I am even glad to be returning to Delhi. Never thought I'd say that. But the prospect of staying with Rajini and her family is really appealing, and it also means that in 5 days' time, I will be flying home.

I'm ready to come home now. I think if I'd still been at DUF I'd have been perfectly content to stay in this crazy country, but coping with the insanity on your own isn't for me. Especially after having so much company for so long. Plus it's too hot, I've got sunburn (despite factor 60), bites and a really weird and annoying heat rash all over my feet. Don't get me wrong, it's been great seeing all the incredible monuments and finding & asserting my independence by doing this alone, but I'm not keen to repeat the experience. Another year at DUF? Say when and I'll be there. Another day travelling on my own? I'll stay in bed, thanks all the same.

I think that's just about all I have to say. Feel like I've forgotten something but don't know what. Oh, it's my Mummy's birthday today, so Happy Birthday to her!! :)

TTFN
Philippa x

Agra

Today I'm in Agra. I'm travelling around so much you could blink and you'll miss me!

After a much more successful train journey this morning than my last one, I befriended a rickshaw driver who drove me around to most of the sites in Agra for the equivalent of about a fiver! I've seen the Taj Mahal from across the river, and am intending to go visit it at 6am for the 'sunrise'. Haha. Although I did actually get sun and blue sky for a bit today. Right after it rained....

The first thing I did on my tour was go to Agra Fort; I had a guided tour for an hour and a half! Then my driver (ooh don't I sound posh) took me to some jewellery and marble inlay shops, being perfectly open about the fact that if I buy something, he gets commission. (The driver who took me to the elephants in Jaipur tried to make it a secret but I ain't as stupid as I look!)

Next, we went to the 'baby taj' and another tomb the name of which I can't remember at the moment and my guide book is across the road in my room. That was when the sun came out, so I think I got some decent-ish photos there as well.

Finally, we went to a garden across the Yamuna River from the Taj Mahal, where you get a really good view, and my friendly driver took the typical tourist photo for me:

I'm going to have some dinner on my hotel's rooftop restaurant with a view of the Taj, and then go to bed, considering I've been up since 4:30 and am going to be out again at 6 tomorrow. Then I will also be going to Akbar's Mausoleum and Fatehpur Sikri tomorrow.

TTFN x

P.S - I didn't go to Ajmer and Pushkar yesterday, but only the Jantar Mantar observatory, and then I slept for most of the day. Think one of the Cayzers gave me a bug!!!

The Pink City

So now I'm in Jaipur.

But it's not really pink, more orange really. Although I'm assured it looks pink at sunset. Which is all very well, but I haven't actually seen the sun (or the sky for that matter) since I left Manali.

All there is is a white smog that seems to be fog, cloud and pollution all rolled into one; making it very hot and humid.

After a hellish train journey from Delhi to here (bus from Chandiragh to Delhi first; made friends with an Indian engineer), I slept in the 'common hall' of my hotel from 5 - 9am, as I wasn't able to check into my room, then was given a different room so I could have a shower and rest as mine still wasn't ready, and finally got into my room after I'd been out for the day!

Originally, the plan had been to meet up with the Cayzers here, but I couldn't get hold of them yesterday, so after freaking out for a bit because I hadn't come prepared for lone travel here, I pulled myself together and consulted the Lonely Planet and my Globetrotters guide!

I visited the Ram Niwas Gardens complete with Museum of Indian handicrafts, the zoo, the City Palace and Palace of the Wind. Then I took a tour with a rickshaw driver who took me to see the elephants who work at Amber in their home - WOW, to a textiles factory and a jewelllery factory. He certainly runs a very shrewd and successful business - good for him, his customers and other businesses. But seriously, the elephant thing was soo cool.

Turns out Celia and Mummy Cayzer hadn't been feeling well; hence me not being able to get in touch, but I went to their hotel (which is actually a palace and tres posh) at 7:30 this morning, and spent the day with them. We went up to Amber fort, where they rode the elephants I'd already made friends with whilst our guide Ajay and I walked up, and then we had a magnificent tour of the place. Afterwards, we did a bit of shopping for shoes/pashminas etc, before heading back to their hotel for lunch and a rest. We did a bit more unsuccessful shopping this afternoon, before they dropped me off here at my very funky and cheap-for-what-you-get hotel, and I said my last goodbye to Celia for a while. It's weird to think I'm not sure exactly when I'll see her again.

I don't really have a formulated plan for tomorrow; I might go to Ajmer and Pushkar, which are towns about an hour and a half away, but if I don't feel like it I could quite easily just chill here for the day! Then on Tuesday morning, I travel by train to Agra.

TTFN x

Chatting in Chandigarh!!!

Hello all!

Another day, another city!
Actually, I arrived here yesterday evening at about 6:45, ahead of schedule as my bus did leave early! I got a cycle rickshaw straight to my hotel, where a huge smile appeared when I saw my room. Double bed, a/c, fan, own western toilet and a shower that I can have as hot or cold as I like!

I flopped on the bed for a while and then decided I'd better go find dinner (in the affiliated restaurant downstairs) before having a nice chilled night. I had a fantastic thali (bit of everything) dinner, and then found an ACTUAL SUPERMARKET (!) and treated myself to a granny smith apple. It wasn't great, but considering it was my first apple in 4 months, it could have had worms in for all I cared! I also got a 13rupee pack of biscuits to munch on while I relaxed and watched the news IN ENGLISH, ON A TV after a gorgeously warm shower FROM A SHOWERHEAD.

You may gather from all the caps that it was all quite exciting. But yesterday evening was just what I needed to make myself feel happier about this whole travel lark. And my day in Chandigarh was pretty great too. I had a lie-in of sorts, although technically my body clock still woke me up at 6, then ordered a cup of tea and cornflakes from room service for breakfast. I never thought I'd use room service, but as my hotel doesn't actually have a restaurant and I didn't fancy getting dressed that early....

I ditched the original plan of using the tourist open top bus to get around, and instead spent the day on various cycle rickshaws, most of whom didn't seem to cheat me much! In just 7 hours, I found an unnamed not special but fabulous park, went to an art gallery, a museum about how the city was created, a museum about the high court, the ROCK GARDEN which I love and wish I could live in - there are even swings in big rock arches, and a big man made lake where I visited the mermaid restaurant suggested by lonely planet for a late lunch. I think that was just about it. But it was a good day.

I'm feeling happier about the whole lone-traveller thing now. Although obviously it'd be better with someone else, I feel like I can cope now. Chandigarh is so much nicer than Amritsar - cleaner, greener, easier to navigate (it's built on a grid system not dissimilar to MK), cooler just about and just generally a nicer place to be. Tomorrow I have to get a bus to Delhi - I went to book today and apparently they run every 5 minutes, despite the journey taking 5 hours! - and then I have an overnight train from Delhi to Jaipur where I will be meeting up with the Cayzers - HURRAY!

That's about all I have to say, but I just thought of a couple more observations:

1 - in trying to blend in by wearing my Indian clothes (partly because I threw away the jeans and 4 t shirts I brought with me) I seem to have actually made myself more conspicuous - all the people who have come to talk to me have mentioned my clothes and wondered whether there is a particular reason for it. At least it's a good way in to explaining I was teaching - I seem to get more respect when they know that.

2 - I keep looking through photos I've taken and suddenly get as far back as the DUF shots, and immediately I feel very emotional. I'm trying not to think about it too much at the moment - it's too hard when I feel like I don't want to be travelling sometimes.

3 - Factor 60 (!) suncream is a miracle. Except when you miss part of your back and your top has a large neckline that slips backwards....

Love you all, looking forward to seeing you again,

TTFN x

The Golden Temple

Hello all.

I tried to write to you yesterday, but the server went down. So please forgive me if this post is bit short; I don't know if I can really be bothered to write it all again!

I arrived here in Amritsar yesterday at 8am, and got a cycle rickshaw to the Golden Temple. Having signed into a dorm where I have a bed and a locker to keep my stuff in - free of charge - I had a cold shower which was absolute heaven! Then I went out to explore the Golden Temple. It's not as impressive as I'd imagined, but then again I was tired and hot (it's sooo humid here) so maybe I didn't enjoy it as much as I could have. I also think it probably looks more spectacular at night, but when I got back from the border closing ceremony last night, I was so tired I just threw some more cold water over me and fell into bed.

The border closing ceremony was really good fun - it involved a lot of shouting and dancing, and people running to the Pakistani side carrying Indian flags, and then the guards in their ceremonial uniforms quick marching about and kicking etc. before the flags were lowered to signal the closing of the border. It was like a big festival - people were selling DVDs of the event, along with indian flags and visors, and even bags of popcorn! I took a shared taxi there and back, so ended up chatting with a sikh family, through the son who was the only one that spoke English!

In between the temple and the border, I took a wander around this part of the city. Bought a couple of pairs of 'jutti' or punjabi flat shoes, some bangles and a really good mango milkshake!!! I found a really nice cafe to eat lunch in (oh I forgot to mention I partook of the free community kitchen food here for a late breakfast, it was really good), and booked myself a decent bus to and hotel in Chandigarh for later today.

I have to admit that so far, travelling on my own hasn't been much fun. I think it's probably because I've become so used to having Celia there with me and being surrounded by kids most of the time; it's suddenly very lonely on my own. And it makes me an easier target for pushy touts and men who may well just be interested in where I'm from, but you never know. Although I had been warned that Punjabi people are very friendly, and it seems to be true. I even get random women saying hello and shaking my hand in the middle of the market! There aren't nearly as many westerners here as I expected, and I think that is also playing a part in making me feel like I stick out. I was hoping to just be able to blend in with the tourist crowd whilst travelling, and so far that hasn't really worked. The other people staying in my dorm room don't speak English either, so it was a very quiet morning getting packed up and organised.

I did have one small success today - on my walk around the local streets I found the garden memorial that commemorates the martyrdom of hundreds of Indians shot during a peaceful protest by the British. It's really beautiful, and I only wish it wasn't so hot, because I could quite easily have spent an hour or so just lounging on the grass.

I have to leave to get my bus in half an hour (1pm), although it doesn't actually leave until 3. Can't quite fathom that one myself either, but I have nothing better to do and at least then I won't miss it, plus will probably get somewhere with either a fan or ac to sit.

TTFN x